How Hair Growth Serums Work

Before we dive into how hair growth serums work, let’s get into how hair follicles work. The anagen phase is the active growth phase of the hair cycle, during which the hair follicle is producing new cells and hair strands are actively growing. It's the most critical phase in the hair growth cycle because it determines the length and thickness of hair. 

Anagen phase can last anywhere from 2-7 years. The longer the hair remains in this phase, the longer it will grow. People with naturally long hair have hair follicles with a longer anagen phase.  The majority of the hair on your scalp (about 85%–90%) is usually in the anagen phase at any given time.  On average, hair grows about ½ an inch per month, so setting realistic expectations is key.  

Factors Influencing Anagen Phase Length:

Genetics: Some people naturally have longer anagen phases, allowing their hair to grow much longer before it sheds.

Age: As we age, the anagen phase typically shortens, resulting in thinner and shorter hair.

Hormones: Hormonal imbalances, such as during pregnancy or menopause, can either prolong or shorten the anagen phase.

Health and Nutrition: Poor diet, stress, or medical conditions may lead to a shortened anagen phase and contribute to hair thinning or hair loss.

A Closer Look At Hair Follicles 

Each hair follicle is it’s own fully functioning organ with stem cells and a blood supply to nourish each strand of hair.  The hair strand is connected to the hair bulb which is the root embedded in the follicle.   The follicle is constantly taking in fresh blood supply, growth factors, collagen and proteins to form new hair.  

Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioners believe that ones blood quality directly relates to the quality of their hair growth which is why scalp massages have been a huge part of hair care rituals for centuries.  More blood flow = more nutrients = better hair growth. 

Ingredients to Look For 

Hair growth serums will contain a plethora of ingredients to stimulate the follicles on multiple levels - stem cell production, collagen production, extending the anagen growth phase and by increasing blood flow to increase nutrient uptake in the follicle.  It is important to remember that the effectiveness of each product varies and time is needed to see results, usually 3-6 months.  Underlying factors of hair thinning also determine effectiveness.  

Plant Stem Cells

Hair serums with stem cells are designed to stimulate hair follicles and promote new hair growth by leveraging the regenerative properties of stem cells. Here’s how they work:

Stem Cell Activation

Stem cells in the hair growth serums usually contain bioactive molecules like growth factors, cytokines, and signaling proteins. These factors help activate dormant hair follicles, encouraging them to re-enter the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle.

Promotes Cell Regeneration

Stem cells are known for their ability to regenerate tissues. In the context of hair serums, they work to regenerate damaged or aging hair follicles by promoting cell division and proliferation. This helps strengthen existing hair and encourage the development of new hair strands.

Peptides 

Improves Blood Circulation

Ensuring better delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicles. This supports healthier growth and prevents hair thinning. 

Reduces Inflammation and DHT Production 

Certain peptides like Lupine in Cake Restorative Scalp Tonic, work to reduce DHT (dihydrotestosterone), which is often associated with hair loss. 

Stimulates Hair Follicles

Certain peptides, like copper and lupine peptides, can signal hair follicles to enter or stay in the anagen phase (active growth phase) of the hair cycle. By encouraging hair follicles to remain active, peptides may help prolong the growth phase, resulting in longer and denser hair.

Promotes Collagen Production

Some peptides can stimulate the production of collagen, a structural protein that supports the skin and hair. Healthy collagen levels in the scalp help create an ideal environment for hair follicles, promoting new hair growth and reducing the risk of hair thinning.

Strengthens Hair

Peptides can help repair and strengthen the hair shaft by increasing the production of keratin. This can make hair strands thicker and less prone to breakage or damage from styling, heat, and environmental stressors.

Rosemary Oil / Extracts 

has been found to be as effective as 2% minoxidil for hair growth in patients with androgenetic alopecia in at least one clinical trial. 

Improves blood circulation to the scalp, which may help stimulate hair follicles and promote hair growth. 

Contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Inflammation is often a root cause of hair loss

Inhibits DHT production.  A hormone linked to hair loss that attacks the hair follicle and stops the growth cycle 

Caffeine 

A 2020 study published in the journal "Skin Pharmacology and Physiology" compared the effects of caffeine with minoxidil (a well-known FDA-approved hair growth treatment) in the treatment of androgenetic alopecia.  The study found that a caffeine-based topical solution was nearly as effective as 5% minoxidil in stimulating hair growth and reducing hair loss over a period of six months.

Minoxidil 

Is a commonly known vasodilator approved by the FDA for hair growth.  It is the only FDA approved treatment for hair growth despite the growing number of studies and anecdotal evidence showing the efficacy of stem cells, peptides, caffeine, rosemary and other natural ingredients without the side effects of minoxidil.  

Other things to consider if you are struggling with hair thinning 

• Get a hormone and thyroid panel done with a functional medicine practitioner. This is especially important for women in their 30s and 40s heading into perimenopause and menopause. 
• Look at your diet.  Is it rich in protein and low in processed foods? 
• Are you getting essential vitamins and minerals? 
• Do you invest in your scalp and hair health as you do other areas of your body and life? 

Next Steps

There is a lot of noise about hair growth; some truths, but also a lot of nonsense.   Lean on trusted companies with transparent marketing who aren’t promising overnight solutions, because as we know, hair regrowth is a slow journey that can’t be tackled by a topical product alone.  Seek out a trichologist if you are struggling with hair thinning as they can often diagnose the root cause and point you in the right direction to find answers.